A thousand words... at least

Door-buster special.

    Don't need a coffin? Take home one of these durians and someone just might keel over when you crack it open. It's fitting that of all the products this shopkeeper could have chosen to lure people into his casket showroom he chose durian -- the legendary "king of fruits" with the killer scent. 
     I took this photo last week in Johor Bahru, Malaysia, a fast-growing city about 15 miles north of downtown Singapore. Margaret was attending meetings in Hong Kong, so I took a day-trip across the Straits of Johor. I had two goals. 
     One, visit the Istana Besar (grand palace) that Sultan Abu Bakar built in 1866 to house the royal family, but it was closed for renovation. Luckily, I can get back pretty easily. It's basically a subway ride away.
     Two, eat lunch at one of the hawker centers in search of the authentic street-food experience that has been lost in Singapore due to the Lion City's sanitation standards, according to Lonely Planet. Thank goodness we can still slip across the border now and then and risk getting sick authentically.

Something for everyone.

     I chose this vendor because she had the biggest, most colorful and best organized spread in the long stretch of all the hawkers in the alleys across the street from the train station. Here's what I got for three ringgits (one U.S. dollar):

Authentically good... and I didn't get sick.

     I chose vegetarian to be on the safe side, a scoop of both the red and green curry, braised Chinese spinach, rice and a slice of roti, delicious fried bread stuffed with big slices of onions and other vegetables. I honestly have not had anything this flavorful at a Singapore food court. Next time, I may have the nerve to go for some of the meat and fish.

Cramped but workable.

     Johor Bahru (or JB, as the locals call it) has benefited mightily from it's proximity to Singapore. An estimated 300,000 people who work in Singapore live in the metropolitan area of JB (pop. 2 million). With a world-class port and financial center in nearby Singapore, many companies have built manufacturing plants here where the cost of living is about one-third of Singapore. JB itself is now home to Malaysia's largest container shipping center -- the 17th busiest port in the world. Singapore and Shanghai are basically tied at No. 1.
     As JB continues to modernize, it seems committed to preserving some of the authentic feel of the old city; but, with very little original charm to save, the locals seem eager to get on with the development. You can't really blame them.

Part of the new train/bus transportation center.

Preserved old station next door, with its Art Deco styling.